groove sharpening
hi
what tool do you use to sharpen the grooves on your wedges, there are loads available, just wondered if they are worth having?
paul
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 13:48
Certainly better than the clubs you've bought
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 13:59
Some info here on the groove sharpener - http://www.golfshake.com/news/view/1207/CozmoSports_Soft_shot_ball_Groove_Cleaner_STX_Putter.html
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 14:10
Just a quick question. How does it 'sharpen' the grooves?
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 14:49
You should know better than to take the p*ss, there's always a serious question behind my apparent facile enquiry.
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 15:35
OK, the edges of grooves aren't meant to be sharp in the first place, they have always had to have a small radius although they can near be parallel into the face (the new rule changes don't affect the bounding fillet radius of the groove, just the draft angle). If it were to have sharp edges they would last maybe one or two strikes before they disappeared. Now, if when you use this tool you get appreciable amounts of swarf (metal cuttings) generated then it may well be that it is cutting the edges to sharp (illegal) and in reality you would only be able to use it two or three times before you wreck the club. If, as I suspect, it cold forms the edges that have been damaged then that's OK, but it will still leave damage on the face. Another problem would be that if it cold forms then the tool would be completely self-defeating with wedges with spin-milled faces.
Feeling pedantic this afternoon.
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 15:42
Fair point tim. I was under the impression that you're allowed to clean the grooves (sharpening them would surely bugger your ball up quickes whether legal or not) and to do that the implement must be softer than the clubface. I use a drawing pin.
There is always graduation which I think means reinstating the grooves to factory state but that can be expensive as a club repairer I knew told me.
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 15:56
The cold forming will roll the metal back into the spin-milled faces, not much - but it will.
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 16:07
Is that an engineering term in the vid " removes the surface S##t"
This is the one I use a bit more proffessional
It caters for V and U grooves and will only re-cut and shape the grooves back to original specs.
http://www.golfsmith.com/products/828720/?tcode=cj
Last edit : Fri 13th Nov 2009 16:17
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 16:09
It can only re-cut it once, once the metal has gone, it's gone.
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 16:38
Hence why Touring Pro's change their wedges reportedly every couple of months.
Reply : Fri 13th Nov 2009 22:30
When all's said and done can we honestly say it makes that much difference?
Reply : Fri 15th Jan 2010 11:00
Sorry Robert, the groove sharpener will go blunt whatever it's made out of.
A2 will only reach HRc 65 before tempering, will be lower after post hardening heat treatment otherwise it would be too brittle.
M42 HSS can be hardened and heat treated to HRc 70.
(Sorry, bit grumpy with a hangover)